Restaurant has transplanted itself from Cambie Street to Kitsilano. Its new location is airy, roomy, modern and inviting
Mia Stainsby
Sun
Christian Gaudreault, owner of Tomato Fresh Food Cafe (left), and chef James Campbell with potato-crusted wild sockeye salmon. Photograph by : Ian Lindsay, Vancouver Sun
The allure of the original Tomato Cafe, when it was on Cambie Street, was that it was like a launching pad to another time and place — Pleasantville, circa 1955, perhaps.
It had this funky, retro diner appeal and was comfortingly old-fashioned, a perfect setting for breakfast or brunch. Dinners went mostly organic and it fit the neighbourhood gestalt.
But the restaurant made a break for it last June with the Canada Line chewing up Cambie. Lunches had been affected; dinner, not so much. So, when Mark James — owner of the new Bayswater Street space –approached, offering his old Fiasco restaurant space, Tomato decided to uproot and transplant.
So, how did a move to Kitsilano translate with new neighbours, new demographics and no history there? It’s definitely busy, especially for weekend brunches. The evenings, too, attract a wide demographic, including families. I prefer the character of the old Cambie Street diner, but I’m a sucker for places with character. The new location is airy, roomy, modern and inviting with a cleaner, leaner feel. Bright red splashes of paint allude to its name.
(At the old location, Dadeo New Orleans Diner and Bar is serving Cajun and Creole food and I’m sad to say, the charm has utterly vanished.)
Christian Gaudrault still owns the Tomato (original owner Diane Clement sold it years ago) and James Campbell changes up the menu seasonally. It’s bistro-style fare featuring fresh, quality ingredients. The bouillabaise has long been a customer favourite and despite the name of the restaurant, Campbell goes easy on tomatoes and it’s for the good in this dish. The broth is tinged with saffron and just enough tomatoes to put a blush in the colour.
Generally, Campbell does a good job. Scallops hadn’t been cooked beyond the point of no return — it still jiggled. Almond and sage-crusted lamb sirloin with fig jus was juicy and tasty. A shaved beet and arugula salad was perkily fresh but not so, the crabcakes which were somewhat mushy. A roasted chicken breast didn’t thrill — the chicken didn’t sing with flavour. Arctic char with tomato, garlic and anchovy fettucine, a special one evening, featured very nice fish but it was overburdened with too much frying oil. Wines are mid-range and a mixed bag from around the world.
The comfort desserts are satisfying. A cherry galette was a burst of slightly sour cherries; white chocolate creme brulée was velvety and rich; but the lemon meringue tart could have been slightly more lemony.
And for brunch, I’ve noted the eggs have great flavour — which is something to crow about and judging by the busy weekends, many do.
– – – TOMATO FRESH FOOD CAFE
Overall: 3 1/2
Food: 3 1/2
Ambience: 3 1/2
Service: 3 1/2
Price $/$$
2486 Bayswater St., 604-874-6020, www.tomatofreshfoodcafe.com
Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars.