You’ll get the best crab deal in town, smaller-portion $5 dishes and a free bowl of plain congee for orders of $15 and up
Stephanie Yuen
Sun
Michael Chow, owner of Chong Lum Hin Seafood Restaurant with some of his freshest menu items. Photograph by : Steve Bosch, Vancouver Sun
Like many unsung Asian chefs in the Lower Mainland, Michael Chow has years of experience cooking in a traditional Chinese kitchen.
Formerly with Pink Pearl and Harbour Place (its first fine-dining Chinese seafood restaurant opened in Metrotown back in the ’80s), Chow has witnessed the ups and downs of the always competitive Chinese restaurant business.
“Changes, there have been plenty. For example, less big restaurants but more neighbourhood-style eateries are now in operation,” Chow said.
“The traditional red and gold with dragon and phoenix decor seldom exists these days and the old-style, book-like menu is gone. Chinese chefs use as much local produce as other chefs. Dim sums and other authentic Chinese dishes are becoming more popular among non-Chinese; some even come in to enjoy our late-night specialties regularly.”
Chong Lum Hin, the Burnaby-based seafood restaurant he has owned and operated since 1996, is a good example of some of the changes.
Two of us went there last week at about 9 p.m., simply because Chong Lum Hin is well-known for its meal that starts at 9 nightly. On top of the regular menu items, the late-night menu also offers dishes at around $5 each.
Though these come in smaller portions, at $5, you can order more varieties. In addition, a free bowl of plain congee (popular with late-night snacks) will be provided for any food order of $15 or more.
Seafood items are written on the blackboard above the seafood tank in both Chinese and English.
The best crab deal in town, a 21/2- pound live crab, cooked any way you desire, costs $12.80 per order. We had it cooked “harbour style” (seasoned and deep-fried with diced garlic, chili, dried shrimp and dried black bean); and we both agreed it’s the best crab we have had so far this summer.
This exotic-flavoured B.C. Dungeness crab went down perfectly with an ice-cold beer.
For an appetizer, we shared an order of eggplant, also cooked harbour style, just to see the effect on different ingredients. Those who do not care for eggplant will likely change their minds once they try this.
Chow’s creative mind was well-demonstrated by some of the dishes we had that evening. A crispy pan-fried shrimp cooked with Iron Buddha tea leaves can only be found here at Chong Lum Hin. The edible tea leaves were flaky and crunchy, their subtle but yet refreshing flavour brought this shrimp dish to a new level.
For $5, the pan-fried whole pomfret seasoned with magi sauce was a great bargain.
The sweetened sauce and meaty fish went well with the plain congee.
Spareribs with special mayo sauce was another delightful surprise. The smart use of mayonnaise brings a new twist to the common spareribs.
The use of Western ingredients and sauces may not be as common as should be, but mayo, butter, cream and red wine can easily be found in Chow’s kitchen.
A nice order of stir-fried bok choy, also at $5, completed this sumptuous late dinner.
Seasonal greens — be it gai lan, choy som or bok choy — when cooked to perfection, are usually the most wanted items at the table.
When it comes to vegetable servings, Chong Lum Hin does offer generous portions and many choices.
The steamed egg custard, the very traditional and healthy dessert, caught my attention.
It was silky smooth with a vanilla-like flavour — definitely a great comfort food to have before heading to bed.
– – – AT A GLANCE
Chong Lum Hin Seafood
7604 — Sixth St., Burnaby
604-521-6881
Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekends. Open for dinner from Monday to Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 3 a.m. and Sunday from 4:30 p.m. to 2 a.m.
$ ($50 or less)
© The Vancouver Sun 2007